We had to clip a few zip-ties to give enough slack to get the EL panel away from the instrument panel to gain access to the two screws that secure the lighting rheostat to the metal panel. You might consider wiring in a "small" barrel cannon plug that will fit inside the yoke shaft so that you will not ever have to deal with that again. Make sure you enumerate the wires on BOTH sides of the cut, BEFORE you actually cut the wires.
If you have electric trim, autopilot disconnect, and trim interrupt switches on your yoke, you'll have to cut the wires running through the yoke shaft. To get the EL switch panel out of the airplane, you'll still have to remove the control yoke.
#2n3055 transistor throttle free#
Once all the switches have been removed, the EL panel will be free from the panel. Wire #6 upper-outboard, Wire #3 middle-inboard, etc.) Write down on a sheet of paper which wire label numbers, go in which connection positions, on each switch (Switch #1, Bundle #1. Enumerate each wire on the back of each switch with labels,Ĥ. Enumerate each bundle with the same number as the switch to which it is attached,ģ. Zip-tie all wires going to that switch into a bundle to keep them together,ģ. Enumerate all the switches with labels, (Klein makes a small book of wire labels, it's available on Amazon.)Ģ. īefore removing ANY wires from the backs of the switches:ġ. Since it would be a living nightmare to lose track of what switches and wires go where. We were able to use a plastic double edge razor blade (the orange ones from Amazon) to wedge between the plastic switch frame and the EL panel to depress the clips to extricate the switches from the EL panel. There are plastic spring clips on the top and the bottom of each switch that must be depressed to free the switch housing from the two panels. With someone inside the plane and someone in the left avionics bay, remove all the switches from the panel as they extend through the EL panel into the metal panel that’s behind the EL panel. Remove the row of flight instruments just above the EL panel. Sow the regulator is bigger then the servo.With the assistance of my excellent IA, we got the electroluminescent panel and the rheostat removed.Įxtricate the knobs from their posts and remove the nuts securing the switches on the EL panel. When short circuiting the regulator my meter gives 1,86 amps. it will simply put the regulator in Short Circuit mode i guess.?
In case the machine fails or something fails and the servo would be defending his position and consuming 1,7amps. When i want to win from the device it let me win but it then consumes 1,7amps and just waits for me to stop with the force.Ĭonclusion: Looks like one Reg per Servo is defendable (its reasonable to choose the solution) because the force the servo has to cope with is many times less then what i give with the hand. When i gave an reasonable amount of force you reach maximum 0,8amps. When i gave some force on the lever to move it from his position it the amps reach a max of 1,7Amp if the voltage drops i dunno know.
When the device was moving my meter could measure something because it takes very short time.
#2n3055 transistor throttle series#
To measure the amps i putted my meter in series with the device.
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